HELPFUL INFORMATION
Top Five Housebreaking Tips
Housebreaking your new puppy may seem like a daunting task, but
with a bit of insight into dog psychology and these proven puppy
training tips, your new pet will learn quickly. If he's an adult dog
who was never fully housebroken (he has accidents daily, weekly or
monthly), you'll find it's best to treat him like a brand-new not house broken puppy.
1. Select the site. Before your new puppy
enters your house, introduce him to the specific area of your yard
you've already designated as his. He'll soon associate it with
bathroom breaks.
2. Visit it often. It's best to take your
new puppy outside about every two hours, as well as upon waking,
after playing and feeding, and before going to bed. In addition, be
alert to signals like sniffing and circling that may indicate he has
to go.
3. Use his crate. When you can't be there, crate your
dog. Your puppy respects his new "den" and will avoid
soiling it. If you purchase a crate large enough to accommodate his
adult size, you can partition off part of the crate so he won't go in
a corner.
4. Correct him kindly. Accidents will happen.
Remember that shouting, scolding and punishment serve no purpose and will only confuse your new puppy. Even if you catch him in mid-act,
simply say, "No!" and immediately take him outside.
5. Praise him. Lavish praise on your dog each time he goes outside
in his assigned spot. Speak in an upbeat voice, smile and reward him
with treats after he does his business
Here's how to help him meet your resident animals:
Do it gradually. Keep them
separated for the first few days.
Keep your new puppy safely in his
crate (or behind an expandable doorway gate) as you supervise their
first meeting.
After several days of sniffing each other, let your resident
pet enter the den while your new puppy is out of his crate
Here's how to make short work of accident cleanup:
Soak up urine with paper towels
and remove feces with a plastic bag.
Treat the soiled area with a mild
detergent solution.
On carpeting, blot the stain -
don't scrub - and work from the outside toward the center.
To neutralize odors, use a spray product that’s
veterinarian-approved as safe to use around pets.
Easing Your Puppy's Separation Anxiety
Maybe it hit you as soon as your parents backed the family car out
of the dormitory parking lot your first year at university and you
realized you were on your own. Or, perhaps you felt it standing at
the neighborhood bus stop last fall, your first born struggling to
climb the over sized steps of the school bus on his way to
kindergarten. No matter who you are or when you felt it, you never
forget bouts of separation anxiety. The pang of loneliness is nearly
visceral; the need to reach out and hang on is imperative. As human
beings, we can explain to ourselves how and why the hurt is there. We
understand life's beginnings and endings and are able to navigate
them, usually with resolve.
But people aren't the only ones who
struggle with separation anxiety. Puppies do, too.
Considering
she's recently left behind her momma, her siblings and the only home
she's ever known, that's understandable. She might be scared. And
lonely. She clings to what she knows makes her feel safe, warm and
happy — you. So when you go off to work in the morning or spend an
entire day at a rugby match, she mourns you. Unlike human beings,
however, she doesn't have the mechanisms to cope as well. As a
result, she might drool, pant, bark excessively, soil the house or
engage in destructive behavior. She may try to escape from your home.
Fortunately, there are steps you can take to help her adjust. Here's
how:
Most puppies learn to embrace their new lives soon after being
adopted. Old fears quickly evaporate as they learn your household's
routines. But for one in every 15 pets, separation anxiety remains
acute. How do you know if your pup has a bad case? Veterinarians who
see chronic cases report that the aforementioned behaviors occur
within the first 30 minutes after you leave your home. Moreover, they
happen consistently when your puppy is left alone.
Be empathetic. Pups who suffer
from separation anxiety are not misbehaving or being spiteful. Never
punish or isolate her. Both tactics can backfire and worsen the
problem.
Redirect her behavior. Tuck a
treat into your little one's kennel before departing or toss her a
new toy before you leave. You could also try feeding her a meal, as
pups with full bellies are likely to be more relaxed than those who
are hungry.
Keep your departures and arrivals
low-key. If your voice and body language say "this is no big
deal", she might start to believe you.
Hire a pet sitter or doggie day
care service so that she'll have company while you're gone.
Teach her to tolerate your comings and goings. Give her a
treat, then leave the house for a minute or two. She'll begin
associating your departures with pleasure (or at least the treat
sweetens the deal). Then, gradually prolong the amount of time
you're gone until she can better cope.
Some pets do not outgrow separation anxiety. (In fact, breeds like
the Weimarnier are known for such issues in some form of it even as
adults.) These animals need your utmost compassion and, perhaps,
medical attention. Sedatives can be prescribed for extreme cases
(though they are not long-term solutions). Moreover, professional
animal trainers can help.
Like you, puppies are social creatures.
It is normal for her to miss you. In time, she'll learn you're coming
home, and the pangs of separation anxiety will fade. Someday soon,
she'll be so comfortable with solitude you will be sure to catch her
asleep — atop your favorite couch.
Preparing
for Life with Puppy
There is nothing quite like bringing Baby home for the first
time. You'll want to introduce her to all the relatives — human
and otherwise — give her a tour and lavish new toys on her. But
before the baptism, take the time to make sure your household is
ready. That means puppy-proofing her quarters, spaces shared with
you and the yard or garden, if you have one. You'll need to
purchase supplies ahead of time and read up on puppy behavior so
you know what to expect. Furthermore, it is hugely important to
prepare children for the new responsibilities that lie ahead and
to teach them to handle the pup correctly. As your to-do list
grows, consider using our checklist to help you organize your
tasks.
The stories often become family lore: "Ruffles"
pulled the fringe off the dining room curtains when she was a
puppy, "Babe" chewed up Bobby's football boots right
before the big match, "Ferragamo" hid in one of Aunt
Leddy's handbag for an entire day and the whole family was
convinced she had run away. Sure, the tales are fun — but only
if the scenario has a happy ending. You can prevent injury —
even death — by making sure your house is pet-friendly.
Literally get down on all fours and scoot around each room in your
house to look for problems. This will give you a puppy's point of
view. Remember to:
Consolidate electrical cords
then hide them in hard plastic "cord keepers," cover
outlets with plastic plugs.
Move houseplants out of reach
until your pup can be trusted. Never give her access to poisonous
plants such as poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb can,
Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy.
Put away breakable treasures
and beloved toys.
Tuck household chemicals into
cabinets and consider locking them with baby hinges. Note this is
imperative with engine lubricants and antifreeze, which are
especially interesting to puppies and deadly.
If you have an outdoor dog run or kennel, check the path
of the sun during different times of the day. If your puppy will
receive full exposure, ensure there is shelter available for her
to take refuge
The allure of the wide world is strong for puppies. That's why
you'll want to make sure your home has appropriate fencing to keep
her safe. Note too, that you might need a fence-within-a-fence to
secure your pool or hot tub. Though canines are known for their
ability to swim, some pets fall in but can't navigate to steps or
leap over tall walls to get to safety. Fencing choices include:
Privacy fences. These tall
barriers have no openings. They cost between $4* and $6 per foot.
Chain link. This material is
durable and costs about $60 per roll.
Underground fencing. These wire
systems are invisible to the eye because they're buried
underground and connected to transmitters which are linked to a
special collar. This collar emits a small shock when the puppy
nears the barrier. Such systems run anywhere from $99 to $1,500.
Dog runs. A covered concrete slab will protect your pup
from adverse weather and ensure she doesn't climb or jump out of
the cage. Such flooring keeps her from digging a hole underneath
and escaping.
.
No matter how much thought you put into keeping your dog
contained, there is always the chance that she might get lost.
Therefore, you'll want to make sure she's properly identified.
Think about:
Purchasing a breakaway collar
that includes an inscription featuring her name, address and your
permanent telephone number as well as the name and number of her
veterinarian.
Having a microchip surgically implanted with contact
information.
People are absolutely mad about their puppies. That's why
doggie day cares, canine boutiques and bakeries for barkers have
popped up around the country in the past decade. But what
equipment do you really need? Put the items listed below on your
"must" list, then if your budget allows, indulge in that
cheetah-print puppy carry-all you've been eying.
Specially-formulated puppy food
(Note: The basic needs of growing pups differ significantly from
that of adult dogs)
Stainless steel no-tip food and
water bowls (such finishes won't break or absorb odors)
Puppy treats for use in
training
Identification tags, adjustable
collar, 6-foot-long nylon leash between ½-3/4 inches wide with a
breakaway feature. Make sure the collar is sized correctly.
One way to measure is to make sure two of your fingers can slip
between the collar and the puppy's neck.)
Home and travel crate large
enough to accommodate your puppy when she's full grown
Stain remover specially
formulated for doggie odors
Brushes and combs to suit your
puppy's coat
Dog shampoo, toothbrush and
paste
High-quality chew toys to ease
teething (Note: It is important to make sure playthings will not
break apart easily.)
Parasite controls such as flea
medicine
Nail clippers
Expandable baby gate to isolate puppy
The incorporation of your pup into your family begins the
minute you pick him up at the kennel or shelter and will continue
for many months. During these days, you'll want to gently impart
upon him that you're the leader of his pack and that there are
rules to be followed. If you establish good habits right off,
you're likely to save yourself grief later on. (Yes, we agree that
it is lovely to snuggle with your 10-pound Golden Retriever puppy
in bed on a Saturday morning, but do you really want Genghis
sleeping with you when he tips the scales at a hefty 110?)
Veterinarians recommend the following strategies to help socialize
your pup and ritualize his days:
Bring your new puppy home when
the house is relatively quiet and "normal." This means
no sleepovers for your twin boys until routines are established,
no spontaneous vacations or holidays where the pup will be left
alone, no late nights at the office. Instead acclimate your
little one to the usual household routines.
Before you even enter the
actual house, take your charge to the area in your garden or yard
(or to the park) that will serve as his toilet. Allow him time to
sniff and snort. If he goes potty, praise him effusively. If
there is no action, try again later.
Then, introduce your pup to one room in the house at a
time to avoid overwhelming him. Cordon off a small section of the
house with a baby gate or door and keep him there to get used to
things for a couple of days. If you aim to crate-train him, place
the kennel in this space. Leave comfy bedding in the room, but
quickly remove it if it becomes soiled, so that Puppy won't think
he's got a personal indoor potty.
You might have purchased your puppy to occupy your kids — or
maybe you had kids because you loved babying your pet. Whatever
the case, children of all ages need to be taught how to handle
your family's animals in an appropriate manner. Consider these
ideas:
Before introducing puppies and
children, lay ground rules with the kids, provided they are old
enough to understand them. Remind them to be gentle. Show them
exactly what you mean by petting their forearms and heads as you
would your pet's. Ask them to practice by stroking you.
Remind kids to use a gentle
voice when addressing the puppy as though they are talking to a
baby.
Teach children to respect the
animal's space, most especially at mealtimes, as even the best
puppies might bite if they feel threatened.
Instruct kids to allow the pup
to come to them, as even the smallest child can spook a young
animal.
Limit puppy-child play session
to between 15-30 minutes 2-3 times per day. Articulate that pets
needs rest time just like the rest of us.
Explain that teasing behaviors
— such as holding a ball just out of a puppy's reach — will
only reinforce bad habits like jumping and barking.
If it's the baby that is new to
the home, bring blankets or clothing that smells like the child
to the animal prior to a homecoming.
Always supervise interactions between youngsters and pets,
disciplining the appropriate party should a snafu take place.
The addition of a new puppy can be tremendously exciting for
your current furry friends. That said, special precautions can —
and should — be taken to lay a foundation for copacetic
friendships. Experts suggest:
Separate your new puppy and the
old gang for a few days by putting up a baby gate between two
rooms. (Or, keep the newbie contained in a kennel.)
Allow the friends to sniff one
another through the bars for several days.
Finally, supervise "dates" between the two pets,
resorting to separation if need be.
Whether your family is large or small, the addition of a puppy
won't be anything but joyful. And when you're properly prepared,
expanding the circle will go off without a hitch.
When you made the decision to adopt a puppy versus a full-grown
dog, you probably did so in part because you knew what you'd get.
"Yes, there will be peeing and chewing," you thought to
yourself as you looked over the litter of downy pups. "But at
least I won't have to contend with the shadowy history as to why the
shelter staff nicknamed my pet "Tiger" this gave you great
comfort. Until, however, you got home and realized that a clean slate
is, well, a clean slate. Not only will you be responsible for
housebreaking your pet, but you'll have to socialize him, too. You'll
want to make sure he's not only obedient, but friendly to all kinds
of people - and animals. It is a lofty goal but you can get there
with hard work and patience (on both your part and that of your pup).
We've got a few suggestions to help get you started.
Before you can develop a strategy to socialize your pet, it is
important to know something about how puppies are wired.
Seven to eight weeks: Many
breeders typically wean and release pups to their new homes at this
age. This is an ideal time to adopt, as puppies are becoming more
independent and are exploring their environment.
Eight to ten weeks: Your little
guy will likely go through a "fear" period. He'll stick
close to you and will frighten easily. Try to limit noise and keep
new experiences non-threatening. (Trust us on this and plan your
five-year-old son's birthday party to a nearby park. Do not take
your puppy.)
Ten weeks of age: Puppies enter a "juvenile" stage
in which he will be more inquisitive and ready to explore. This
phase lasts until adulthood. It is a terrific time to introduce new
experiences and work on socializing your pet. (Please note that some
puppies go through a second "fear" period around four or
five months.)
The world is full of different types of individuals, so it is
essential that your pet can relate to others. Always reward your animal with treats when he demonstrates desired behavior.
Begin by introducing your puppy to
quiet friends on his own home turf for short periods of time. Invite
one or two neighbors over for a drink on the patio and to scratch
your puppy's ears. When greeting your little one, have guests crouch
down low and allow him to approach them on his own time. This will
give your pup a greater sense of control.
Once your pet masters "home"
visits, try taking him to the park or dog run. Let him decide who to
meet and for how long. You never want to force your pet into a
situation where he is fearful. (Of course, make sure the person he
approaches wants to be greeted. Some people are afraid of dogs —
even puppies.)
It is also important to introduce
your puppy to people of different races, ethnic backgrounds, ages
and professions as some dogs might develop an aversion to people who
don't look like you and thus seem "unusual" to them. (The
postman will thank you later.)
Once he begins to enjoy new adults, introduce him to older
children for short amounts of time. Supervise the visit, of course,
as kids can play roughly and may scare your pup. If you don't know
any children personally, take the pup to a park and he'll likely
draw them in on his own. (Please note: Even if you don't have kids
in your family, it is imperative to socialize puppies with them. If
dogs don't interact with children early in life, they often develop
aggressive behavior towards them later. Small children who race
around and make high-pitched squealing noises can trigger prey
instincts in dogs who are not used to them.)
Even puppies who consider themselves to be nearly human will have
to learn to get along in the canine community. At the very minimum,
you'll come across another dog (or his scent) during your daily
walks. Thus, he needs to practice doggie speak.
Head to the park to find pooch
playmates. Allow cordial sniffing and some play, but back off if
your puppy seems intimidated or if the other parties have poor
manners.
Consider hosting doggie play
dates. Invite friends to bring their dogs to your garden or backyard
for a game of Frisbee.
Please note that dog-to-dog socialization is hugely important
for breeds that are dominant or aggressive.
Your new puppy and your Siamese cat might never be best friends
(Remember the Disney story "Lady and the Tramp?") but you
can at least encourage them to tolerate one another.
Begin by keeping the newcomer in a
kennel and allowing the resident pet to "visit" him
through the safety of the bars. Gradually extend the length of
visits before allowing the two to meet face-to-face. Supervise these
meetings until you feel confidant all will go well.
Please note that no matter how well-behaved and
well-socialized your puppy is, he will likely still try to chase
animals he considers prey. It would be dually unpleasant for both
your bunny and your three-year-old to witness a National Geographic
hunting scenario, so we suggest keeping Fluffy safely locked in her
cage and out of your pup's reach.
The vacuum cleaner can be a terrifying thing for a young puppy.
All is quiet, then suddenly, this towering devil growls and
begins sucking up dog hair from the couch. To avoid frightening him
(and having to clean up pee), introduce your pup gradually to new
experiences.
Let him check out the quieted vacuum/car/baby toy/hair
clippers by himself. Then, place him a safe distance away before
turning it on for a moment or two. After turning it off, stand by
the object and call your pup to you. Reward him. Repeat this lesson,
extending the amount of time the sound is running. Finally, call him
to you while the noise is actually going. He'll eventually see that
the television/fan/washing machine is no big deal.
Recommended Readings:
Neil, David H., and Clarice Rutherford. How to Raise a Puppy You
Can Live With. Alpine Publications, Loveland, Colorado, 1981.
The Monks of New Skete. The Art of Raising a Puppy. Little, Brown
and Company, 1991.
Raising a puppy and socializing it is a tremendous labor of love.
When done correctly, your pup will aspire to someday holiday or
vacation with a team of rugby players.
|
|
